Hearts & Kidneys: Completion of the Duck Whole Animal series…. and the Beginning of the Lamb Series

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The duck fat has been rendered (see this great, simple recipe) and the leftover confit sits in the back of the refrigerator protected by the fat in which it was cooked. This contributes to an easy weekend salad of duck confit, spinach, and whatever vegetables are on hand. All that remains are the hearts and kidneys.

The next whole animal series will be with lamb, so this post will wrap up the duck and start the lamb.

A goal for this project is to cook with the whole animal, and all that is left of the ducks are the hearts and kidneys. It has taken me a while to get here, and my procrastination has allowed me to have some great conversations about their use. I was also in Montreal earlier this year and had a brilliant braised lamb heart that was stuffed with sausage at Joe Beef. So this is no longer theoretical.

It was time to put the plan into action. To start, I put the duck and lamb hearts and kidneys together in a marinade, and finished with simple braise and then a quick sear in a hot cast iron pan. The marinade was simple – olive oil, salt, fresh thyme and a small amount of wine.IMG_1838.JPG

The result? Borderline edible but definitely not delicious. Chalky. My neighbor ate most of what was prepared but I stopped after a few bites. By far the least delicious thing on the table that night. A fail.

What did I learn?

  1. Organs are tricky, and sausage alone won’t get me where I need to be
  2. The marinade plus the braise broke down the meat beyond what was intended, which resulted in overcooking. The acid in the marinade likely compounded the problem. Next time I will probably try just a marinade plus a quick sear.
  3. Procrastination has an effect. Offal must be very fresh to have a chance at creating something that exceeds mediocrity.
  4. My neighbor must have been raised in an exceptionally polite family

Pairings: High proof bourbon to mask the flavor and texture. If that doesn’t work, shots of bitters, Washington Isle style like they do at Nelsen’s Hall & Bitters Pub.

 

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